In a landmark achievement for modern alpinism, a three-man Polish–Slovak team has successfully completed the first recorded ascent of Chumik Kangri, a remote 6,754-metre peak in the Saltoro Range of northern Pakistan. The climbers — Michał Czech and Wadim Jabłoński of Poland, and Adam Kaniak of Slovakia — summited the mountain via the steep south face in a bold, alpine-style push.
The route, which they named “The Great Gig in the Sky,” was climbed over three days in mid-September, marking one of the few major first ascents in the Karakoram in recent years.
The Team and Objective
The expedition’s mission was to attempt an unclimbed six-thousander using lightweight, self-sufficient tactics. Chumik Kangri rises above the upper Gyong Glacier, in a sector of the Karakoram that has seen little climbing due to decades of restricted access and its proximity to sensitive border zones.
Operating without high-altitude porters or fixed camps, the team carried all equipment and supplies on the mountain. Their chosen line on the south face gained roughly 1,100 vertical metres of ice, snow, and mixed terrain, with difficulties up to M6/A1.
According to reports shared by PlanetMountain and Summiters Club, the team’s approach exemplified modern exploratory climbing: light, fast, and technically demanding.
Route and Map Overview
The team’s route begins from a Base Camp (BC) established on the Gyong Glacier at approximately 5,600 metres. From there, they ascended snow and ice slopes to Camp 2 (C2) positioned beneath the south face.
Their final push followed a direct, steep line up the central face to the Saltoro Ridge, reaching the true summit at 08:10 AM on 14 September 2025.
Key sections of the ascent:
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BC → C2: Moderate snow and ice slopes, acclimatisation phase.
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C2 → Upper Face: Steeper mixed ground, thin ice and rock pitches.
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Upper Face → Summit Ridge: Sustained technical climbing with exposure.
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Summit → BC: Descent via the same route in worsening afternoon conditions.
Timeline of the Ascent
| Date (2025) | Activity |
|---|---|
| Early September | Establish Base Camp and acclimatise on nearby terrain |
| 12 September | Load carries and route reconnaissance |
| 13 September | Camp 2 established; prepare summit attempt |
| 14 September | Summit reached at 08:10 AM; descent to Advanced Camp by 22:00 |
| 15 September | Return to Base Camp and debrief |
The climb and descent were completed in roughly three days from the higher camps — a demanding schedule that reflects the team’s skill and endurance.
Challenges and Significance
Chumik Kangri lies within a geopolitically sensitive region near the Siachen and Saltoro frontiers, making logistics, permits, and access particularly complex. The expedition required coordination through Pakistani mountaineering authorities and careful planning to navigate the restricted area.
This ascent underscores the continued spirit of exploratory alpinism in Pakistan’s high ranges. While many of the Karakoram’s eight-thousanders are now regularly climbed, vast areas of the Saltoro and Gyong ranges remain largely untouched.
For the climbing world, the first ascent of Chumik Kangri represents not only a new route but a symbolic return to the roots of modern alpinism — minimal gear, maximum commitment, and pure exploration.
Editorial Note
This report is based on publicly available expedition data and verified coverage by ExplorersWeb, PlanetMountain, and Summiters Club (September 2025). All textual content © Allsportpk.com 2025.
